Make your own free website on Tripod.com
Dakota Needles Climber     |   home
previous   next           up

New Routes
While I don't know all of whats been done, this is a collection of some of the new routes  since August 1998.  The routes that are noted in RED and underlined are some of my personal recommendations, they are fun ( in my opinion).

"Rogain and Maxamill" 5.8 This route is located on Old Baldy. As you walk to Old Baldy from the South Seas towards the west face you will see a large cleft or dihedral. This climb is to the left of the cleft. Clmb up a line of bolts to a bolted belay anchor. (it’s a bit uncomfortable belay stance, a better belay stance would have been to the ledge at the right. But we have to live with this one) Continue following the bolt line for a second pitch to the top. You can walk off the top.
RUSHMORE

8/99 "Grecian Formula" 5.8  This is located on Old Baldy in Mount Rushmore National Monument. This is the route just left of "Rogain and Maxamil" Climb up a slab with a series of bolt towards a obvious crack about 80 feet up. Climb the crack using traditional protection to a ledge. Belay at the ledge. Continue up the face with the bolts to the top. You can walk off the top.
RUSHMORE.

8/00 "Wierd Dripper" 5.8-  Do any of the various starts to the "Wierd Water" Route on Middle Marker. When you get into the prominent water streak that leads straight to the summit, follow it. This is truly the most obvious line why Mike Engle went to the right on to the face instead of doing the straight water gully I don’t know. After you leave the "Wierd Water" route by staying in the water chute there is seven more bolts. Altogether there should be about 12 bolts a person would use on the route.
RUSHMORE

9/10/00 "Rest and Relaxation" 5.8  This climb is located between "All Tuckered Out" and "Boxcars and Airplanes" Climb up a face with bolts(6) to a flaring crack.
RUSHMORE

9/19/00 "Afternoon Thunder" 5.11c This climb is located to the left of "Misty Morning" on Cavity Rock.  Climb a steep thin face to a chain anchor, 6 bolts.
RUSHMORE

 9/00 "Stormy Night" 5.7 This is located on Cavity Rock to the left of "Afternoon Thunder". It follows a shallow groove then finishes through a short chimney at a set of  anchors The climb has 6 bolts and the anchors.
RUSHMORE

9/6/00 "Tall Drink of Water"(5.5),  This is located on Giraffe .   Climb a splitter chimney on north side (west end ) to its top; then easy face to summit.  , All leader placed protection. No anchor on top but a long sling can be placed
Cathedral Spires, The Needles;

9/30/00  "Tranquil Evening" 5.10a  Climb the groove aand crack to the left of "Afternoon Thunder" and to the right of "Stormy Night" 5 bolts on the route with anchors at top.
RUSHMORE

9/30/00 "Putt Putt Toot Toot" 5.7 This route is located on the backside of Toy Boat Rock directly across from "Stormy Night" 4 bolts are in the route with anchors at the top. You can finish by two ways. You can climb up to the left of the final bolt or to the right.
RUSHMORE

5/01 "Full Speed Ahead"  5.5  Climb the low angled route that is to the left of "Damn The Torpedos" on Toy Boat Rock 5 bolts plus an anchor.
RUSHMORE

7/19/01 "Humpback’s In Love" 5.10c  This route is to the left of the Waves route. Climb up a bolted rib then move towards a weakness on the left side of the rock. 13 bolts are cliped along with the use of some small to medium pro.  You can do this route in two shorter ptches to minimize possible rope drag. There is a set of anchors mid-way.  (This route was formally known to some as "Salty Dogs".)
RUSHMORE

7/24/01 "Middle Age Sex" 5.8 Climb the bolted route up the gully to the left of "New Number 9" 8 bolts plus the anchor. About 70 feet in length.
RUSHMORE

Summer 01 "Tuck and Roll" 5.11a  Climb the arete above " All Tuckered Out"
6 bolts  (Do this as a seperate pitch, do not combine it with "All Tuckered Out" so rope stretch won't frop on "All Tuckered Out")
RUSHMORE

07/30/01 "Pre-Marital Sex"  5.8  Climb the bolted line to the left of "Middle Age Sex" 6 bolts plus an anchor. About 60 feet in length.
RUSHMORE

08/09/01  PB&J (Peanut Butter and Jelly) 5.11c Climb the bolted groove on the north end of the west face of the Peanut Formation. Be prepared to get out of the  groove and smear the BP&J. 12 bolts plus an anchor, about 90 feet. Many people climb to the right of the pod which is probably  the 11c crux, some have gone straight up over the pod "The Peanut Butter variation" and never leaves the groove 11d/12a.
RUSHMORE

08/30/01 " Shark Bait"  5.8 This climb is located to the left of Shark’s Breath in the South Seas area of Mount Rushmore. This route follows the arete to the last bolt that is part of the Shark’s Breath route. 13 bolts altogether
Rushmore

08/30/01  Shark Attack  5.11bThis route takes the bolt line to the left of Shark Bait. Follow the bolt line up the groove to meet the Jaws of the shark.  14 bolts.
Rushmore

8/00 "Coppin’ A Feel" 5.10 c/d  This climb is located to the left of "Small But Firm" on Tit Rock. Can place 1 small to medium cam if you are nervous. 6 Bolts
RUSHMORE

Summer 01  "Slamat" 5.10a This climb is located 15 feet left of "Moonstone"
RUSHMORE

"They Came From Minnesota" 5.11d This route is the bolted climb along a small dike to the left "Pelican Dyke" 4 Bolts?
RUSHMORE

"Love Monster" 5.11b This route is located to the right of "The Monster Within" (AKA "Oneway Road")  and to the left of "Moshie Monster Farts" Approximately 6 bolts?
RUSHMORE

06/01 "IO"  5.8  Short route to the left of Solo System. Stay left of bolts or it becomes 5.4  3 bolts.
RUSHMORE

09/08/01 "Pamplona"  5.9 Located on the south end of Baby Bull. 1 bolt plus small to medium pro. 40 foot rope length No fixed anchors, but can be descended with anchors on "Not Too Steep For My Lichen" or walk off. Very Fun.
RUSHMORE

9/01 "Jellyfish and Condoms" 5.8 - 5.10 ( This route can be height dependent. The taller you are the easier it is. Adjust the grade to your height) This route is to the left of "Humpbacks In Love" on "Shipyard Rock" and to the right of "Skark’s Breath". Start in the gully immediatly to the right of Shark’s Breath" and ascend the gully until a chimney splits off right. Climb up in this chimney till you come to a crack that will take medium to large pro. Climb up by the crack using plates the crack or whatever for about 15 feet. Then follow the bolt line up the center of the face to a set of anchors. The very last moves are the crux, it has the sting. Like the jellyfish or the condum it’s in the tip at the end. Another start to the climb is after you make the moves into the gully immediatly climb up the face to the right until you hit the crack  then the bolts. This is the 30 year "Yahne Start".
5 bolts plus some medium to large pro.
RUSHMORE

"Aces High" 5.9  This climb is located on the formation to the right of "Ace in the Hole" Protection is gear from yellow TCU to #2 Cam and nuts, along with 2 bolts
RUSHMORE

"Chemical Wire" 5.11d  This climb is to the left of the climb "Political Division". Protection is standard gear with 1 bolt.
RUSHMORE

Watergate Tower 5.8  In the gully behind "Five Card Draw" Perfect handcrack to ledge then thin crack to summit. Usually done in two pitches (rope drag). Standard gear with doubles on 1 & 2 cams
RUSHMORE

Saturday Night Massacre 5.9 Wide crack on "Watergate Tower" Climb crack to the roof. Protection #3-5 cams (BIG STUFF)
RUSHMORE

10/22/01 "Shrimp Cocktail" 5.4 Walk to as if you are going to the rock known as "Turtle / AKA Toyboat II" walk past the routes "O Positive" and "Middle Aged Mutant Ninja Climber" into the next small gully. On the right side is a small climb with 3 bolts.
RUSHMORE

10/25/01 "Bubba Gump Shrimp" 5.7 Walk to as if you are going to the rock known as "Turtle / AKA Toyboat II" walk past the routes "O Positive" and "Middle Aged Mutant Ninja Climber" into the next small gully. Continue past "Shrimp Cocktail" about 30 feet. Climb the route with the 5 bolts.
RUSHMORE

10/27/01 "Life Vest made of Lead" 5.5 Walk to as if you are going to the rock known as "Turtle / AKA Toyboat II" Go around to the side opposite of the route "O Positive" Climb the route just past the large pine tree on "Turtle"  5 bolts.
RUSHMORE

10/31/01 "Up the Creek" 5.5 This route is located just past  "Life Vest made of Lead"  about 20 feet. it follows the face just past the large crack on "Turtle" 4 bolts
RUSHMORE

Summer 1999 "Hail Betty" 5.9 This route is located to the right of " Existential Angst" on "Veiney" 5 bolts.
RUSHMORE

Fall 2000  "Babob"  5.10c This route is located to the left of " Existential Angst" on "Veiney" 4 bolts.
RUSHMORE